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Inspired by the elegant molded look of the toppers in the era of Balenciaga. The Cocoon Jacket is soft draping through the shoulder and bust and slightly tapers to a curved hem ending at hip length. Deep dolman sleeves begin at the upper hip and are one piece seamed at the shoulder, darted, and continue into funnel neckline shape. Sleeves are 3/4 length with a tear drop opening at the wrist. Back neck and front opening are faced in an all in one front and back facing piece with no closure. Optional welt pockets include options for both a narrow double welt or a wider single welt. Optional lining is included. Variations on a Theme This design works well in a variety of fabrics which can change the use of the jacket. In a taffeta as a self lined jacket (jacket pieces cut out twice, no facings), making all the edges enclosed seams, is fast to cut and stitch completely by machine - a quick evening or rain jacket with a zip front. Piping can also be applied around the front facing or decorative stitching along each side of the body seams to accentuate the cut. It can also be cut longer to full length for a dramatic 1920’s effect in a slight taper or straight down. Sizing XS to 3X: Bust 34” to 53” and Hip 36” t0 55” - please note if you are larger than the 3x measurement this pattern is quite roomy and forgiving you may still use the 3x to up another couple of inches. Preliminary Considerations Depending on your chosen fabric take a moment to decide how you would like to interface your jacket. The funnel shaped neck may need support. Also note that the one piece sleeve wraps from the front to the back so any napped fabrics will be up on one side and down on the other. If matched to alternate properly with the front and back pieces this can yield interesting resutls when reflecting light. Fabric Recommendations Wool coating, napped soft or heavy weight velvets, brocades, crisp organza, taffeta, and faille. Also suitable, novelty fabrics, denim, wide wale corduroy, and water repellent fabrics. Sewing tips will be posted at centerforpatterndesign.com

This one-size pattern is a single pattern piece with two seams and a standing collar. It is not intuitively assembled but magically yields a fitted bolero that accommodates a variety of proportional figure differences and sizes. The pattern is already expanded so that it may be pleated using a Japanese method similar to shibori work on a pole with fishing line and boiling water. See a video from Anne Selby here using a pole, whatever works. It requires 1.75 yards of 58"-60" 100% polyester fabric for  permanent pleating.  It is quickly finished with serged narrow rolled edges and has no closures. Hems can fall on a decorative selvedge or they may also be separately finished.

Pattern comes in half scale on a 1" grid to make enlarging easier. Inspired by Balenciaga's Opera Coat of the 1950's, this half scale designer is actually a full circle with set-in sleeves. The collar is a large fold which has been both pleated and gathered into the neck band. A variety of closures is possible at the center front neck and a separate neck "tie" is attached at the center back and ties in the center front. Lining is optional. This is a digital pattern. After purchase you will receive a link. Please download and save to your desktop as soon as possible to avoid any confusion. 

This pattern consists of the bodice and skirt of the front and back of a straight sheath dress (the basic dress) and includes the sleeve and a dress form arm pattern for padding.  This pattern enables you to develop a flat pattern design in half scale and try it out on a form before you go to the greater effort of working in full scale.  It's perfect for use in crowded classrooms to teach flat pattern design more efficiently, completing more assignments in the time available. Designers will be able to quickly experiment with various concepts, either by draping or flat pattern, before committing to the sample making stage.  It's really good for Zero Waste try-outs!The pattern fits the American made Dress Rite form, size 6/8, with measurements of Bust-17", W-13", H-18" and BWL-15.5.  It may be altered to fit other forms.  It is best to work in gingham when experimenting since the behavior of the grain is immediately obvious and opens up many clever uses for unusual grain-based textile characteristics in the finished design.

You will receive a link to a digital file. Please download and save to a computer desktop. This is a one piece pattern, the file is for 30 pages on US letter that will need to be taped together. For A4 please adjust size in your printer preferences and check the 3” test square on page 6.  YardageAllow approximately 1.25 yards of 45” fabric. If you are working with wider fabric this will allow you some room to play with extending the sleeve or entire length of top. This is a low waste pattern so please use the extra fabric scraps to make bias binding for the edges or other details if you choose. For the toile (sample) choose a fabric which will drape such as a rayon challis or other soft fabric, muslin is too crisp.Sizing and FitPattern includes the sizes - small, medium, and large or bust 32 to 40. Please grade up according to your preferences - this is very easy but slashing and spreading. Theoretically this pattern can fit any size but this pattern assumes the sewer will be able to enlarge accordingly to his or her body measurements. You don’t necessarily have to be “advanced” but just fearless in your sewing. I also recommend slashing from edge to edge and spreading in the areas you would like to enlarge considerably. For larger sizes wider fabric and possibly more yardage is recommended. You may need to incorporate piecing depending. As is the large will just fit on 45” wide fabric so if enlarging or lengthening is desired a wider width fabric will be preferred. This pattern is also a great point of departure for more designs and variations so play with the shape and have fun. The bottom of the top sits around the lower waistline. This is a little top great on it’s own or as a layering piece under jackets and sweaters. A perfect top to make with silk - it feels great against the skin and works well with panels and larger prints. You don’t necessarily have to be “advanced” but just fearless in your sewing. I also recommend slashing from edge to edge and spreading in the areas you would like to enlarge considerably. For larger sizes wider fabric and possibly more yardage is recommended. You may need to incorporate piecing depending. As is the large will just fit on 45” wide fabric so if enlarging or lengthening is desired a wider width fabric will be preferred. For beginning to advanced skills depending on how creative you want to be. A Word About CFPD PatternsOur patterns are meant to be ‘educational patterns’ that is they are unusual and most often have some feature that is a learning experience which is the whole point in publishing them. Therefore they may not contain detailed sewing instructions or additional pieces such as linings and/or facings since the focus is on the cut of the main pieces, leaving secondary details to the preferences and skills of the cutter. As in all unusual patterns, it is best to make a toile - a sample - to work out the construction and also to adjust the fullness and ease to your chosen fabrics if necessary.

About the Pyramid Dress: This pattern in an example of Julian Roberts’ Subtraction Cutting system of pattern design. It is so named for its debut at the Pyramids in Indianapolis and its method of construction in which it is drawn up into a pyramid and stitched. You can find out more about Julian Roberts’ work via his website: julianand.comGeneral Information: This garment hangs on the bias. Therefore, depending on the give of your chosen fabric it is difficult to give exact finished garment measurements for each size. Pattern includes sizes 6 to 14, bust sizes 32” to 42” approximately.Suggested fabrics: satin back crepe, loosely woven woolens, linen, silk with body, anything with drape on the bias. Striped crisp weaves also yield interesting results. Best when using fabric at 55” and up, the wider the better. With narrower fabric piecing will be required.Yardage varies but usually 1.5 to 2.5 yards for a tunic and 5 yards for a tea length dress. You are the designer, feel free to be creative with this pattern. There are no rules.Seam allowances are not included.

Base is a felt. 3 x 3" classic yacht style.  Designer deadstock

Bright bold perfect crisp red. I have 2 widths. The 6mm is flat and suitable for accents as a seam cover, neck/shoulder seams, pockets, take it everywhere. Also there is a binder 10mm on each side. Please note both stretch cross not with the length. This makes it easy to wrap an edge or for covering a seam but does not stretch lengthwise. It will do curve depending on how severe but I recommend dampening in the curve and steaming to shrink and mold first.  made in Japan 100% wool