CB Bolero Jacket Pattern
$22.00
In the 1950’s and 60’s Balenciaga delved into his Spanish origins with it’s tradition of ecclesiastical robes, bull fighting, and court costumes - as inspiration for his sculptural cuts. While the designs appeared complex, they usually had a simple cut which depended on characteristics of the fabric and it’s careful manipulation during construction to throw the grain or absorb a dart or yield the right amount of fullness to defy gravity. The CB Bolero is inspired by this period.The Concept:The “collar” pattern piece is actually only the back collar. The appearance of a collar in front is actually a continuation of the jacket front piece, starting at the side seam, folding back at the CF and joining the back collar at the shoulder. This cut gives the illusion that the jacket is a folded circle.Easy to assemble it has a set in 3⁄4 sleeve and is best suited to reversible fabrics since both sides will show. If hemmed, the hem must reverse where the collar drapes into a fold on the front. No turn is necessary when the hem is bound or serged continuously. No closure and only four pattern pieces. Sizing is XS to XL.Sizing and fit notes:Elegant, easy to sew and wear, this bolero sits on the shoulders with no closure, therefore it is recommended to fit slightly snug across the back and shoulder, which is hidden under the collar. Finished garment measurement across the upper back and shoulders, ending about 1” below the shoulder apex seam are approximate and as follows: XS/14.5”, SM/ 15.25”, MED/16”, LG/16.75”, XL/17.25.”Suggested Fabrics:A variety of fabrics are suitable, each lending different characteristics to the cut and drape. The softer crepes will drape closer to the body and heavier fabrics will stand away. To highlight the folded circle illusion, reversible fabrics will be best and sheers will show interesting transparent layers. Double weaves, crepes, anything with some body and drape. Heavier wovens with a little stretch to hug the shoulders can also work - for example medium stretch woolens.Options:
This coat will also be successful in a shorter length as a true bolero or sleeveless in a sheer or embellished fabric. Alternately, the jacket may be cut longer or may be tapered longer in the back for dramatic effect.
It is also possible to completely line the jacket in another fabric or color, enclosing all the edges. With this option, the front and back pieces should be joined at the side seams and lined, leaving the shoulders open. The sleeve seams stitched and line and the collar lined. The three parts are then assembled at the shoulder, armholes and neckline, hand finishing the underside of the seams (see tutorial on the blog).
Notions and Trims:
Binder for the entire jacket/collar hem, 4 to 8 yards depending on fabric stretch and trim.1 yard 1/8” twill tape (or whatever you have on hand) to secure back neck seam Optional shoulder pads – add a nice shape.
Yardage 2 5/8 to 3 yards
Art Coat Couture Sewing Pattern
$26.00
ArtCoat 1 is the first of a series of unusually cut jackets from the Center For Pattern Design. It is unique, easy to assemble and wear, quick to sew, one size, works in a wide variety of fabrics and offers numerous ways to individualize.
ArtCoat 1 has a swing back that may be cut either on the bias with a center back seam or on the cross fold. It has a swing silhouette a standing shawl collar and deep dolman sleeves. There are just 2 pattern pieces. It can be made in a day. ArtCoat 1 requires 2.5 yards of 54" fabric for bias layout or 2 yards of 54" fabric for cross grain layout. Sample shown in silk organza. One size.
Portrait Tie Top Pattern
$15.00
This is a legacy pattern and is exactly how it was first published. I have added below some more info on yardage but please conduct a muslin first and then go from there - if you want to make changes or get creative. The sizing starts small.
This garment may be worn as a loose or tight tied top with a glamorous décolleté neckline and face-framing portrait collar or untied with an open front that drapes on the bias over another garment. It is possible to cut the top longer as a evening wrap or a bathing suit cover up. It may also be lined with another color or made in multiples, layered in sheers or lace. It has back darts which fit the back when tied and is sized in S, M, L, XL. For intermediate to advanced skills.
Yardage depends, the pattern piece is very wide and cut on the center back fold. Of course you can seam the center back and just double the yardage by cutting the piece twice separately and add seam allowance to the center back. Width measurements below are half so if the width is 32” you will need a width of 64” if cut on fold.
Measurement of pattern:
Small 25H x 32 W
Medium 26H x 33 W
Large 28H x 34W
XL 30H x 36W
With a center back seam yardage w/o nap is as follows and is measured tight, please add extra for shrinkage or matching patterns.
55” wide
sm/med 1 yard
lg/xl 1 1/8 yard
45” wide
sm/med 1 1/8 yard
lg 1 1/4 yard
xl 1 1/3 yard
Yardage w/nap either width:
sm: 1.4 yards
med: 1.45
lg: 1.55
Harry Simons Drafting Mens Shirts and Undergarments Print Edition Limited
$14.00
$18.95
Reprint - paperback - wire bound - 8.5" X 11" - 56 pagesThis second book is focused upon everyday wear for men and boys like sport shirts and work shirts but it also includes those other important daily garments like pajamas, bathrobes and drawers, even long ones just for wear with jeans (it was written before central heating), making this book a great basis for a thriving business of underneath necessities -- the Brits call them the 'smalls'. Once a person experiences the everyday comfort and confidence of wearing custom made clothing, there's no going back -- completely changes the thinking. Another way to apply these lessons for a small manufacturing business, is to do production runs for niche markets that do not fit standard sizing. Complete instructions on using the Tailor's Square (and a source for purchasing) are included with illustrations of the draft's.This book will introduce you to three big concepts in menswear, pattern drafting in general (as opposed to draping or flat pattern design), the use of the Tailor's Square and the principles of the proportional system of pattern drafting. The lessons are for beginners and cover all the details, including how to use the Tailor's Square itself. This is the companion book to Drafting Mens Work Garments and continues the lessons to make shirts and underwear for men and boys. The proportional system was the core concept of customized clothing during the first half of the 20th Century and the Tailor's Square was designed to shortcut the math and speed up the process. The proportional system, originating in Europe and still in prevalent use, is based upon fundamental principles of the anatomy of the human body in nature and applies those similarities between all people to the drafting of patterns; it can be applied to both men and women. Custom measurements are taken to make individual adjustments as each pattern is drafted. Both books form a solid basis for a more affordable custom menswear business or a small manufacturing firm that serves a niche market, one that does not require the expense of tailoring fabrics or the time of hand stitching but still delivers garments that fit beautifully and can be individual in color, cut and fit for each market or customer.Reprint - paperback - wire bound - 8.5" X 11" - 56 pages
CB Paletot Half Scale Pattern Download
$12.95
Inspired by Balenciaga’s Paletot of the 1950’s, this design has a unique hidden ribbon which invisibly holds the pleats from the neck to the wrist. The pattern is half scale but can be enlarged to full scale and it is one size. It is best done in a drape-able fabric like silk or wool crepe (sample) or a rayon blend. Lining is optional. Appropriate for intermediate or advanced skills.
Yes! you can very easily enlarge this pattern to full scale, file includes 1 inch gridlines for enlarging.
Art and Craft Of Ribbonwork Booklet
$9.00
$16.00
The original instructions and patterns for the intricate ribbon work and decorative accessories worn on Victorian and Art Deco millinery, from the company which sold the materials. When Antiquity Press reprinted this book in 1980, it began the revival of ribbon art and the many books and teachers which have followed since then. It has hundreds of clear photographs and illustrations with instructions for each technique.
Half Scale Sloper Set Digital Download
$10.00
This pattern consists of the bodice and skirt of the front and back of a straight sheath dress (the basic dress) and includes the sleeve and a dress form arm pattern for padding. This pattern enables you to develop a flat pattern design in half scale and try it out on a form before you go to the greater effort of working in full scale. It's perfect for use in crowded classrooms to teach flat pattern design more efficiently, completing more assignments in the time available. Designers will be able to quickly experiment with various concepts, either by draping or flat pattern, before committing to the sample making stage. It's really good for Zero Waste try-outs!The pattern fits the American made Dress Rite form, size 6/8, with measurements of Bust-17", W-13", H-18" and BWL-15.5. It may be altered to fit other forms. It is best to work in gingham when experimenting since the behavior of the grain is immediately obvious and opens up many clever uses for unusual grain-based textile characteristics in the finished design.
Half Scale Sloper Set
$12.95
This pattern consists of the bodice and skirt of the front and back of a straight sheath dress (the basic dress) and includes the sleeve and a dress form arm pattern for padding. This pattern enables you to develop a flat pattern design in half scale and try it out on a form before you go to the greater effort of working in full scale. It's perfect for use in crowded classrooms to teach flat pattern design more efficiently, completing more assignments in the time available. Designers will be able to quickly experiment with various concepts, either by draping or flat pattern, before committing to the sample making stage. It's really good for Zero Waste try-outs!The pattern fits the American made Dress Rite form, size 6/8, with measurements of Bust-17", W-13", H-18" and BWL-15.5. It may be altered to fit other forms. It is best to work in gingham when experimenting since the behavior of the grain is immediately obvious and opens up many clever uses for unusual grain-based textile characteristics in the finished design.
Crescent Pleat Bolero
$11.00
$22.00
This one-size pattern is a single pattern piece with two seams and a standing collar. It is not intuitively assembled but magically yields a fitted bolero that accommodates a variety of proportional figure differences and sizes. The pattern is already expanded so that it may be pleated using a Japanese method similar to shibori work on a pole with fishing line and boiling water. See a video from Anne Selby here using a pole, whatever works.
It requires 1.75 yards of 58"-60" 100% polyester fabric for permanent pleating. It is quickly finished with serged narrow rolled edges and has no closures. Hems can fall on a decorative selvedge or they may also be separately finished.
CB Circle Coat Half Scale
$20.00
Inspired by Balenciaga’s Opera Coat of the 1950’s, this half scale design is actually a full circle with set-in sleeves. The collar is a large fold which has been both pleated and gathered into the neck band. A variety of closures is possible at the center front neck and a separate neck ‘tie‘ is attached at the center back and ties in the center front. Lining is optional.
The CB Circle Coat draped and developed for the MySize Barbie doll, the 36" doll which we convert to a half scale dress form with a form cover.
CFPD Art Deco Bias Cowl Sleeve Blouse PDF Download
$18.00
The cowl is an ingenious bias cut which can be applied in amny garment locations and one of the most flattering is the sleeve. This pattern has only one pattern piece which is cut four times on the bias and seamed at the center front and back and the side seams. The front neck naturally falls in a small cowl also and the sleeves fit tightly at the forearm. It may be cut longer to dress length if desired. The model was cut from a border design ombré silk velvet. There is a garment weight at the hem of each seam.
Download includes original instructions, tiled print at home copy with layout guide, wide format copy 30 x 32."
Sizing is small medium large - assuming cutter can grade to their preference. Front and back are identical.
Format is PDF print at 100% scale.
Sized 8 to 18 measurements can depend on the give of the fabric, this is easy to grade up or down
Yardage at 54" 2 3/8 to 2 3/4 yards
A Word About CFPD PatternsOur patterns are meant to be ‘educational patterns’ that is they are unusual and most often have some feature that is a learning experience which is the whole point in publishing them. Therefore they may not contain detailed sewing instructions or additional pieces such as linings and/or facings since the focus is on the cut of the main pieces, leaving secondary details to the preferences and skills of the cutter. As in all unusual patterns, it is best to make a toile - a sample - to work out the construction and also to adjust the fullness and ease to your chosen fabrics if necessary.
