Pattern Grading and Pattern Making E Book Publications

 This product is a digital download in PDF format, it is read only. You will not be able to print this book. Your purchase supports a small business.  Please note: I am offering this in digital format to make it more affordable for more sewers and for our environmental future. The cost to print this on paper and to ship around the worls is not profitable. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out. This book is more than a book. It is a project, an educational course. It's original subtitle is A Complete Course in Twenty-Four Lessons and it takes you through measuring a man and drafting a pattern to fit him personally. It was originally designed in 1922 to be a training guide for "tailors" and dressmakers in rural communities for men who needed good work wear -- occupational overalls, jackets, pants, even scouting uniforms. That means the patterns are for machine stitched goods of denim and other heavy cottons; the garments are not tailored in wool. This book will introduce you to three big concepts in menswear, pattern drafting in general (as opposed to draping or flat pattern design), the use of the Tailor's Square and the principles of the proportional system of pattern drafting. The lessons are for beginners and cover all the details, including how to use the Tailor's Square itself (and where to get it). The proportional system was the core concept of customized clothing during the first half of the 20th Century and the Tailor's Square was designed to shortcut the math and speed up the process. The proportional system, originating in Europe and still in prevalent use, is based upon fundamental principles of the anatomy of the human body in nature and applies those similarities between all people to the drafting of patterns; it can be applied to both men and women. Custom measurements are taken to make individual adjustments as each pattern is drafted. This book and its companion, Drafting Mens Shirts and Under Garments, form a solid basis for a more affordable custom menswear business, one that does not require the expense of tailoring fabrics or the time of hand stitching but still delivers garments that fit beautifully and can be individual in color, cut and fit to each customer. Another way to apply these lessons for a small manufacturing business, is to do production runs for niche markets that do not fit standard sizing.

This product is a digital download, you will receive an emailed link to your file. Please download and save to your desktop immediately to avoid any confusion. The file format is PDF, it is read only. You will not be able to print this book. Your purchase supports a small business.  Please note: I am offering this in digital format to make it more affordable for more sewers and for our environmental future. The cost to print this on paper is not profitable. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out. This second book is focused upon everyday wear for men and boys like sport shirts and work shirts but it also includes those other important daily garments like pajamas, bathrobes and drawers, even long ones just for wear with jeans (it was written before central heating), making this book a great basis for a thriving business of underneath necessities -- the Brits call them the 'smalls'. Once a person experiences the everyday comfort and confidence of wearing custom made clothing, there's no going back -- completely changes the thinking. Another way to apply these lessons for a small manufacturing business, is to do production runs for niche markets that do not fit standard sizing. Complete instructions on using the Tailor's Square (and a source for purchasing) are included with illustrations of the draft's. This book will introduce you to three big concepts in menswear, pattern drafting in general (as opposed to draping or flat pattern design), the use of the Tailor's Square and the principles of the proportional system of pattern drafting. The lessons are for beginners and cover all the details, including how to use the Tailor's Square itself. This is the companion book to Drafting Mens Work Garments and continues the lessons to make shirts and underwear for men and boys. The proportional system was the core concept of customized clothing during the first half of the 20th Century and the Tailor's Square was designed to shortcut the math and speed up the process. The proportional system, originating in Europe and still in prevalent use, is based upon fundamental principles of the anatomy of the human body in nature and applies those similarities between all people to the drafting of patterns; it can be applied to both men and women. Custom measurements are taken to make individual adjustments as each pattern is drafted. Both books form a solid basis for a more affordable custom menswear business or a small manufacturing firm that serves a niche market, one that does not require the expense of tailoring fabrics or the time of hand stitching but still delivers garments that fit beautifully and can be individual in color, cut and fit for each market or customer.  

This product is a digital download, you will receive an emailed link to your file. Please immediately download and save to your desktop to avoid confusion. The file format is PDF, it is read only. You will not be able to print this book. Your purchase supports a small business.  Please note: I am offering this in digital format to make it more affordable for more sewers and for our environmental future. The cost to print this on paper and to ship around the world is not profitable. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out. This book includes the accompanying sloper pattern for 36" wide printer. Jack Kirschner was an industry pattern cutter during the period before computers. The clothing and textile industry was one of the biggest in the US at the time and many systems were developed then to make the pattern making tasks faster and more accurate. Kirschner published 2 books on quick pattern grading, or sizing, one for clothing, Advanced Pattern Grading Simplified, and this one for lingerie. We reprint them to serve those who operate small studio environments, often custom, without large computer systems and also for many foreign companies which also may not have access to CAD programs. The methods in the book are applicable to most lingerie garments and also for tights, swimsuits and stretch garments, considerably speeding the tedious task of hand grading. Included in the subject matter is bras, slips, panties, nightgowns, pajamas, bed jackets and union suits -- or, in today’s jargon, the catsuit! Pattern designers may also use the "slip" concept as the starting pattern for many versions of the slip dress popular today. The form-fitting "slip" is the starting basic block for the many lingerie garments illustrated in the book so we have included a full scale, nest graded, combination slip block pattern -- sizes 6-18 which can be adjusted for style, size and contour using the Kirschner method. New - Reprint - Spiral bound - 8.5" X 11" - 101 pages. Block pattern included.

This product is a digital download, you will receive an emailed link to download your file, to avoid confusion I recommend accessing and saving your file asap. The file format is PDF, it is read only. You will not be able to print this book. Your purchase supports a small business. Please note: I am offering this in digital format to make it more affordable for more sewers and for our environmental future. The cost to print this on paper and to ship around the world is not profitable. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out. Advanced Pattern Grading Simplified by Jack Kirschner. This grading book teaches a hands-on method for grading women's garment patterns with speed and accuracy using the pivot & shift methods. This method was employed by professional pattern designers prior to the introduction of computer software.  Here's the method: You stack sheets of paper, one for each size, then shift and pivot them, cutting as you go. When you're done, you have all the sizes of the pattern already cut and ready to use, no tracing, no printing out in wide width paper -- it's all a cutting process. The book includes kimono sleeves and more complex bodices and collars. It's perfect if you're not doing computer aided design (CAD) or planning on it. Heavily illustrated with oversized cutting diagrams and detailed text instructions.