CB Bolero Jacket Pattern

In the 1950’s and 60’s Balenciaga delved into his Spanish origins with it’s tradition of ecclesiastical robes, bull fighting, and court costumes - as inspiration for his sculptural cuts. While the designs appeared complex, they usually had a simple cut which depended on characteristics of the fabric and it’s careful manipulation during construction to throw the grain or absorb a dart or yield the right amount of fullness to defy gravity. The CB Bolero is inspired by this period.

The Concept:

The “collar” pattern piece is actually only the back collar. The appearance of a collar in front is actually a continuation of the jacket front piece, starting at the side seam, folding back at the CF and joining the back collar at the shoulder. This cut gives the illusion that the jacket is a folded circle.

Easy to assemble it has a set in 3⁄4 sleeve and is best suited to reversible fabrics since both sides will show. If hemmed, the hem must reverse where the collar drapes into a fold on the front. No turn is necessary when the hem is bound or serged continuously. No closure and only four pattern pieces. Sizing is XS to XL.

Sizing and fit notes:

Elegant, easy to sew and wear, this bolero sits on the shoulders with no closure, therefore it is recommended to fit slightly snug across the back and shoulder, which is hidden under the collar. Finished garment measurement across the upper back and shoulders, ending about 1” below the shoulder apex seam are approximate and as follows: XS/14.5”, SM/ 15.25”, MED/16”, LG/16.75”, XL/17.25.”

Suggested Fabrics:

A variety of fabrics are suitable, each lending different characteristics to the cut and drape. The softer crepes will drape closer to the body and heavier fabrics will stand away. To highlight the folded circle illusion, reversible fabrics will be best and sheers will show interesting transparent layers. Double weaves, crepes, anything with some body and drape. Heavier wovens with a little stretch to hug the shoulders can also work - for example medium stretch woolens.

Options:

• This coat will also be successful in a shorter length as a true bolero or sleeveless in a sheer or embellished fabric. Alternately, the jacket may be cut longer or may be tapered longer in the back for dramatic effect.

• It is also possible to completely line the jacket in another fabric or color, enclosing all the edges. With this option, the front and back pieces should be joined at the side seams and lined, leaving the shoulders open. The sleeve seams stitched and line and the collar lined. The three parts are then assembled at the shoulder, armholes and neckline, hand finishing the underside of the seams (see tutorial on the blog).

  Notions and Trims:

  Binder for the entire jacket/collar hem, 4 to 8 yards depending on fabric stretch and trim.
  1 yard 1/8” twill tape (or whatever you have on hand) to secure back neck seam Optional shoulder pads – add a nice shape.

• Yardage 2 5/8 to 3 yards