Center For Pattern Design

Please note this pattern and instructions were created and authored by Barbie McCormick  Download includes extensive instructions and a large format pattern to be printed on a 36" wide printer. No tiled print at home this is a big pattern piece.  The couture party skirt is a wardrobe essential ensuring you are always ready when the invitation arrives. A skirt you can make over and over again in varying lengths and designs. Fabric forward in every way the pattern also includes extensive instructions for constructing the skirt with couture methods.  Full, box-pleated skirt in 3 lengths (knee, tea, and floor) with 3 waistband options (straight, contour, or yoke). Couture construction ensures personal fit, aligned pleats, crisp hem, and a luxurious skirt. Construction includes pleat stay and pattern includes both couture and basic non couture instructions. Forthcoming: smaller and larger size ranges, adjustable waist, pockets, and lining. Also a zoom class, stay tuned. Yardage: Skirt A, B, C, for underlining and fashion fabric58 or 60” wide fabric is recommended.For Floor length skirt: 5 ¼ yardsFor Tea length skirt: 4 yardsFor knee length skirt: 3 ¼ yards Fabric suggestions: crisp or firmly woven light to medium weight fabrics with good body. Brocades, silk duppioni, silk twill, peau de soie, shantung, taffeta, gazar, satin organza, linen, eyelet, organdy.Underlining: Silk Organza is recommended for silk or wool skirts, and is a great underlining in most fabrics. Cotton batiste, voile, or organdy can be used for cotton or linen skirts.Lining: (optional): Silk charmeuse, China silk, habotai, voile, batiste, tissue taffeta.Notions: 6 yards hairbraid, grosgrain ribbon (for straight waistband, need your waist measure plus 3 “), 9-11" zipper, hook and eye, about 2-3 yards twill tape, basting thread -#100 silk for silk skirts, cotton basting thread can be used for other fabrics.

Introducing the 1940's Bow Belt pattern. This is a hand traced copy of a special vintage pattern from my collection. It is a fun little project that is perfect for using a small piece of something special (5/8 yard). The pattern is hand traced on dotted pattern paper, with handwritten notes on the pattern. Instructions are scanned and there is an information sheet with some notes. The bow is created from 3 pieces, 1 for each side and 1 for the bow piece. It comes sized for a 28" but is easy to enlarge to your measurements. It requires some interfacing for the center that really depends on the weight/belt of the fabric. The pattern recommends hymo that is cross stitched down. You can make this with a variety of fabrics, you can underline to make more stable and sturdy. Feel free to ask me for advice.  Sample is cut crossgrain in this fabric here. The pattern is vintage so originally laid out on very narrow fabric on the grain. I cut lay this out on the crossgrain which saves 1/2 the fabric and is much wider. The pattern piece have the grainline on them. I recommend laying out on crossgrain. Download includes instructions and notes to print at home 8.5" x 11,  and a large format sheet for the pattern 31" x 31" this is not a tiled pattern. At Fed Ex this costs just under $7. Support a small business.  

Pattern comes in half scale on a 1" grid to make enlarging easier. Inspired by Balenciaga's Opera Coat of the 1950's, this half scale designer is actually a full circle with set-in sleeves. The collar is a large fold which has been both pleated and gathered into the neck band. A variety of closures is possible at the center front neck and a separate neck "tie" is attached at the center back and ties in the center front. Lining is optional. This is a digital pattern. After purchase you will receive a link. Please download and save to your desktop as soon as possible to avoid any confusion. 

 This product is a digital download in PDF format, it is read only. You will not be able to print this book. Your purchase supports a small business.  Please note: I am offering this in digital format to make it more affordable for more sewers and for our environmental future. The cost to print this on paper and to ship around the worls is not profitable. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out. This book is more than a book. It is a project, an educational course. It's original subtitle is A Complete Course in Twenty-Four Lessons and it takes you through measuring a man and drafting a pattern to fit him personally. It was originally designed in 1922 to be a training guide for "tailors" and dressmakers in rural communities for men who needed good work wear -- occupational overalls, jackets, pants, even scouting uniforms. That means the patterns are for machine stitched goods of denim and other heavy cottons; the garments are not tailored in wool. This book will introduce you to three big concepts in menswear, pattern drafting in general (as opposed to draping or flat pattern design), the use of the Tailor's Square and the principles of the proportional system of pattern drafting. The lessons are for beginners and cover all the details, including how to use the Tailor's Square itself (and where to get it). The proportional system was the core concept of customized clothing during the first half of the 20th Century and the Tailor's Square was designed to shortcut the math and speed up the process. The proportional system, originating in Europe and still in prevalent use, is based upon fundamental principles of the anatomy of the human body in nature and applies those similarities between all people to the drafting of patterns; it can be applied to both men and women. Custom measurements are taken to make individual adjustments as each pattern is drafted. This book and its companion, Drafting Mens Shirts and Under Garments, form a solid basis for a more affordable custom menswear business, one that does not require the expense of tailoring fabrics or the time of hand stitching but still delivers garments that fit beautifully and can be individual in color, cut and fit to each customer. Another way to apply these lessons for a small manufacturing business, is to do production runs for niche markets that do not fit standard sizing.

This product is a digital download, you will receive an emailed link to download your file, to avoid confusion I recommend accessing and saving your file asap. The file format is PDF, it is read only. You will not be able to print this book. Your purchase supports a small business. Please note: I am offering this in digital format to make it more affordable for more sewers and for our environmental future. The cost to print this on paper and to ship around the world is not profitable. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out. Advanced Pattern Grading Simplified by Jack Kirschner. This grading book teaches a hands-on method for grading women's garment patterns with speed and accuracy using the pivot & shift methods. This method was employed by professional pattern designers prior to the introduction of computer software.  Here's the method: You stack sheets of paper, one for each size, then shift and pivot them, cutting as you go. When you're done, you have all the sizes of the pattern already cut and ready to use, no tracing, no printing out in wide width paper -- it's all a cutting process. The book includes kimono sleeves and more complex bodices and collars. It's perfect if you're not doing computer aided design (CAD) or planning on it. Heavily illustrated with oversized cutting diagrams and detailed text instructions. 

About the Pyramid Dress: This pattern in an example of Julian Roberts’ Subtraction Cutting system of pattern design. It is so named for its debut at the Pyramids in Indianapolis and its method of construction in which it is drawn up into a pyramid and stitched. You can find out more about Julian Roberts’ work via his website: julianand.comGeneral Information: This garment hangs on the bias. Therefore, depending on the give of your chosen fabric it is difficult to give exact finished garment measurements for each size. Pattern includes sizes 6 to 14, bust sizes 32” to 42” approximately.Suggested fabrics: satin back crepe, loosely woven woolens, linen, silk with body, anything with drape on the bias. Striped crisp weaves also yield interesting results. Best when using fabric at 55” and up, the wider the better. With narrower fabric piecing will be required.Yardage varies but usually 1.5 to 2.5 yards for a tunic and 5 yards for a tea length dress. You are the designer, feel free to be creative with this pattern. There are no rules.Seam allowances are not included.

This product is a digital download, you will receive an emailed link to your file. Please immediately download and save to your desktop to avoid confusion. The file format is PDF, it is read only. You will not be able to print this book. Your purchase supports a small business.  Please note: I am offering this in digital format to make it more affordable for more sewers and for our environmental future. The cost to print this on paper and to ship around the world is not profitable. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out. This book includes the accompanying sloper pattern for 36" wide printer. Jack Kirschner was an industry pattern cutter during the period before computers. The clothing and textile industry was one of the biggest in the US at the time and many systems were developed then to make the pattern making tasks faster and more accurate. Kirschner published 2 books on quick pattern grading, or sizing, one for clothing, Advanced Pattern Grading Simplified, and this one for lingerie. We reprint them to serve those who operate small studio environments, often custom, without large computer systems and also for many foreign companies which also may not have access to CAD programs. The methods in the book are applicable to most lingerie garments and also for tights, swimsuits and stretch garments, considerably speeding the tedious task of hand grading. Included in the subject matter is bras, slips, panties, nightgowns, pajamas, bed jackets and union suits -- or, in today’s jargon, the catsuit! Pattern designers may also use the "slip" concept as the starting pattern for many versions of the slip dress popular today. The form-fitting "slip" is the starting basic block for the many lingerie garments illustrated in the book so we have included a full scale, nest graded, combination slip block pattern -- sizes 6-18 which can be adjusted for style, size and contour using the Kirschner method. New - Reprint - Spiral bound - 8.5" X 11" - 101 pages. Block pattern included.

This product is a digital download, you will receive an emailed link to your file. Please download and save to your desktop immediately to avoid any confusion. The file format is PDF, it is read only. You will not be able to print this book. Your purchase supports a small business.  Please note: I am offering this in digital format to make it more affordable for more sewers and for our environmental future. The cost to print this on paper is not profitable. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out. This second book is focused upon everyday wear for men and boys like sport shirts and work shirts but it also includes those other important daily garments like pajamas, bathrobes and drawers, even long ones just for wear with jeans (it was written before central heating), making this book a great basis for a thriving business of underneath necessities -- the Brits call them the 'smalls'. Once a person experiences the everyday comfort and confidence of wearing custom made clothing, there's no going back -- completely changes the thinking. Another way to apply these lessons for a small manufacturing business, is to do production runs for niche markets that do not fit standard sizing. Complete instructions on using the Tailor's Square (and a source for purchasing) are included with illustrations of the draft's. This book will introduce you to three big concepts in menswear, pattern drafting in general (as opposed to draping or flat pattern design), the use of the Tailor's Square and the principles of the proportional system of pattern drafting. The lessons are for beginners and cover all the details, including how to use the Tailor's Square itself. This is the companion book to Drafting Mens Work Garments and continues the lessons to make shirts and underwear for men and boys. The proportional system was the core concept of customized clothing during the first half of the 20th Century and the Tailor's Square was designed to shortcut the math and speed up the process. The proportional system, originating in Europe and still in prevalent use, is based upon fundamental principles of the anatomy of the human body in nature and applies those similarities between all people to the drafting of patterns; it can be applied to both men and women. Custom measurements are taken to make individual adjustments as each pattern is drafted. Both books form a solid basis for a more affordable custom menswear business or a small manufacturing firm that serves a niche market, one that does not require the expense of tailoring fabrics or the time of hand stitching but still delivers garments that fit beautifully and can be individual in color, cut and fit for each market or customer.  

You will receive a link to a digital file. Please download and save to a computer desktop. This is a one piece pattern, the file is for 30 pages on US letter that will need to be taped together. For A4 please adjust size in your printer preferences and check the 3” test square on page 6.  YardageAllow approximately 1.25 yards of 45” fabric. If you are working with wider fabric this will allow you some room to play with extending the sleeve or entire length of top. This is a low waste pattern so please use the extra fabric scraps to make bias binding for the edges or other details if you choose. For the toile (sample) choose a fabric which will drape such as a rayon challis or other soft fabric, muslin is too crisp.Sizing and FitPattern includes the sizes - small, medium, and large or bust 32 to 40. Please grade up according to your preferences - this is very easy but slashing and spreading. Theoretically this pattern can fit any size but this pattern assumes the sewer will be able to enlarge accordingly to his or her body measurements. You don’t necessarily have to be “advanced” but just fearless in your sewing. I also recommend slashing from edge to edge and spreading in the areas you would like to enlarge considerably. For larger sizes wider fabric and possibly more yardage is recommended. You may need to incorporate piecing depending. As is the large will just fit on 45” wide fabric so if enlarging or lengthening is desired a wider width fabric will be preferred. This pattern is also a great point of departure for more designs and variations so play with the shape and have fun. The bottom of the top sits around the lower waistline. This is a little top great on it’s own or as a layering piece under jackets and sweaters. A perfect top to make with silk - it feels great against the skin and works well with panels and larger prints. You don’t necessarily have to be “advanced” but just fearless in your sewing. I also recommend slashing from edge to edge and spreading in the areas you would like to enlarge considerably. For larger sizes wider fabric and possibly more yardage is recommended. You may need to incorporate piecing depending. As is the large will just fit on 45” wide fabric so if enlarging or lengthening is desired a wider width fabric will be preferred. For beginning to advanced skills depending on how creative you want to be. A Word About CFPD PatternsOur patterns are meant to be ‘educational patterns’ that is they are unusual and most often have some feature that is a learning experience which is the whole point in publishing them. Therefore they may not contain detailed sewing instructions or additional pieces such as linings and/or facings since the focus is on the cut of the main pieces, leaving secondary details to the preferences and skills of the cutter. As in all unusual patterns, it is best to make a toile - a sample - to work out the construction and also to adjust the fullness and ease to your chosen fabrics if necessary.

Charles James had a talent for very unusual pieces that turned heads and his version of this mantle did the job in black velvet and white satin. Our version is in two-toned taffeta and works for day and evening -- even for rain. It is one pattern piece which is lined and threaded through the center with a thick sash which gathers the mantle to fit. It can be worn open like shawl or closed like a cape collar. It requires intermediate sewing skills and one size fits all.Pattern requires 2 pieces 2 1/8 yards long and 33” wide.

Inspired by the elegant molded look of the toppers in the era of Balenciaga. The Cocoon Jacket is soft draping through the shoulder and bust and slightly tapers to a curved hem ending at hip length. Deep dolman sleeves begin at the upper hip and are one piece seamed at the shoulder, darted, and continue into funnel neckline shape. Sleeves are 3/4 length with a tear drop opening at the wrist. Back neck and front opening are faced in an all in one front and back facing piece with no closure. Optional welt pockets include options for both a narrow double welt or a wider single welt. Optional lining is included. Variations on a Theme This design works well in a variety of fabrics which can change the use of the jacket. In a taffeta as a self lined jacket (jacket pieces cut out twice, no facings), making all the edges enclosed seams, is fast to cut and stitch completely by machine - a quick evening or rain jacket with a zip front. Piping can also be applied around the front facing or decorative stitching along each side of the body seams to accentuate the cut. It can also be cut longer to full length for a dramatic 1920’s effect in a slight taper or straight down. Sizing XS to 3X: Bust 34” to 53” and Hip 36” t0 55” - please note if you are larger than the 3x measurement this pattern is quite roomy and forgiving you may still use the 3x to up another couple of inches. Preliminary Considerations Depending on your chosen fabric take a moment to decide how you would like to interface your jacket. The funnel shaped neck may need support. Also note that the one piece sleeve wraps from the front to the back so any napped fabrics will be up on one side and down on the other. If matched to alternate properly with the front and back pieces this can yield interesting resutls when reflecting light. Fabric Recommendations Wool coating, napped soft or heavy weight velvets, brocades, crisp organza, taffeta, and faille. Also suitable, novelty fabrics, denim, wide wale corduroy, and water repellent fabrics. Sewing tips will be posted at centerforpatterndesign.com

Thank you for your patience. I have tested this pattern it is good, I made no changes other than some extra notes on the pattern and in the instructions for clarity. Sizing is S,M,L - I look forward to offering a second size range asap. In the meantime you can always grade up simulating the current grading lines. Since this is on the bias the give will vary depending on the fabric, I would say bust sizes are about 34” to 42” depending. I stock the best rayon silky piping I recommend the 1/8”For piping you will need at least very minimum 7 yards this is an estimate it depends where you want to put it like around the collar, etc. 10 yards is safer.The Bias Tier Coat is cut on the straight grain but worn on the bias, so there is subtle shaping to the body without the visual distraction of  fitting darts of other seaming.  The straight grain cut also allows for easier and more controlled stitching. The design has kimono sleeves, a standing collar and is an ideal pattern for directional or art-dyed fabrics with decorative trim inserted at each seam.  The coat would be great in woven wool coating, medium-heavy weight silks, cottons or some synthetics.  The pattern is  best done in a fabric with directional characteristics such as stripes, ribs, patterns or nap -- for instance, corduroy would be very interesting -- but it is not appropriate for knits or stretch fabrics. It may also be done as a jacket with fewer sections or even as a dress in softer fabrics.  The pattern is graded in small (6-8), medium (10-14) and large (16-18) but the bias and choice of fabric will allow it to be size flexible.  Lining pattern included.This pattern requires intermediate to advanced sewing skills -- not for beginners.Yardage as follows: Coat45” small/ 5 3/8, med/lg 5 1/2 yards54” small/ 4 1/2, medium 4 5/8, large 4 3/4 yards Lining45” small 4 1/8, medium 4 1/4, large 4 3/8 yards54” small 3 3/4, 3 7/8, 4 yards